Well that's it. My holiday's over and I can honestly say it was a superb experience, but one I'm keen to finish off at some point in the future; after all I did only do the south half of the country. It's quite weird how quickly it comes to an end, one moment I'm getting up and dressed in Tokyo, the next I'm on a flight watching Beowulf.
I've met loads of people, both Japanese and western, which was great. Lovely to meet them all and get to know them, so thank you to you all.
Now I'm back in the UK it's back to work and planning my next trip - New Years ^_^
Thank you to everyone whose been commenting and emailing throughout my trip too, it was great to hear from you all.
I've met loads of people, both Japanese and western, which was great. Lovely to meet them all and get to know them, so thank you to you all.
Now I'm back in the UK it's back to work and planning my next trip - New Years ^_^
Thank you to everyone whose been commenting and emailing throughout my trip too, it was great to hear from you all.
Getting up at 3.30am I left the hotel to catch the first train along with Sam and Claire. Luckily the fish market was easy to get to on the subway since we didn't have to change lines - just straight there on the Hibiya Line.
Arriving there we headed inside. At first we weren't sure if we were allow in through that entrance as it was just tradesmen and vehicles rushing in and out, but seeing a few people in Bermuda shorts that looked decidedly touristy, we figured we'd try going in. The place was already quite hectic with fish being thrown about while underneath some real artists carved up the huge tuna with amazing speed.
We were pushed around, after all these people had work to do, and silly tourists would just stand dumbfound in the aisles slowing them up. It was a great to see it all going on and although we were too late to see the tuna auctions (you'd have to walk or find a taxi to get there early enough for that) I did get to see them finishing up and grabbed some photos from about two metres outside the auction room.
After the fish market we wandered around the outer market which housed a variety of tools and supplies for restaurants as well as a parade of food stalls serving fresh seafood meals. The sushi was great although a bento box I bought was a bit more miss than it was hit.
Arriving there we headed inside. At first we weren't sure if we were allow in through that entrance as it was just tradesmen and vehicles rushing in and out, but seeing a few people in Bermuda shorts that looked decidedly touristy, we figured we'd try going in. The place was already quite hectic with fish being thrown about while underneath some real artists carved up the huge tuna with amazing speed.We were pushed around, after all these people had work to do, and silly tourists would just stand dumbfound in the aisles slowing them up. It was a great to see it all going on and although we were too late to see the tuna auctions (you'd have to walk or find a taxi to get there early enough for that) I did get to see them finishing up and grabbed some photos from about two metres outside the auction room.After the fish market we wandered around the outer market which housed a variety of tools and supplies for restaurants as well as a parade of food stalls serving fresh seafood meals. The sushi was great although a bento box I bought was a bit more miss than it was hit.
Unfortunately followed shortly after by the earthquake in China, I experience my first one (that I could actually feel) while at the hotel late one night. Lying in bed watching a movie on my laptop, I started swaying back and forth - at first I thought I'd just had way more to drink than I could remember ^_^ - but after noticing the coat-hanger start to clack against the wall I realised the building was actually moving.
It was great experience; maybe it would have been different if it were a full blown, violent one, but luckily it wasn't anywhere near.
It was great experience; maybe it would have been different if it were a full blown, violent one, but luckily it wasn't anywhere near.
Some pictures of my visit to the senso-ji temple in Asakusa, which is the most important one in Tokyo and equally full of people at all times of the day.
And then on to Harajuku with another temple and the park where bands
were set up along the pathways playing their wares. It was great just
to stand and listen to then as they were all pretty decent.
Maybe you just thought that Totoro lived in the woods happily lazing his life away in almost blissful ignorance... like a sloth. But I now know better, in that wood is a magical house full of wondrous creatures and corridors that twist and turn like spaghetti in a blender. This place is in Mataka, just 40 minutes from Tokyo Station.
My trip to the Ghibli Museum (An animation company some describe as Japan's Disney, and others reply saying its so much more than) was an unexpected one, as when I visited the Lawsons down the street from the hotel and got help from the clerk because the whole ticket machine was thick with Japanese, I found out (it was 1pm) that the only time available was that day at 4pm. And yes, I arrived at 3.30pm and they wouldn't let me in because I was early and they were at capacity - the time does matter.
The walk to the museum and the park around it is nice enough and is littered with small Ghibli references like children's and animals footprints, and themed directional signs to point the way there. Nestled in amongst the trees, the museum feels a world away even though there is a main road no more than 10 metres. Completely themed around the world's that Miyazaki created in his films, the museum also explains the mechanics of animation and uses props and strobe lights to show visitors how it works. Walking around is great though, finding little hidden places and seeing where a corridor will take you and happening upon props creatures and items from the movies is great fun particularly if you enjoyed the likes of My Neighbour Totoro, Laputa and Howl's Moving Castle.
That was the toilets (don't worry, I quickly sneaked the picture while there was nobody else in) with a painted scene behind the window.
And there's Totoro, watching over the place and making sure none of the riff-raff get in. Oh and the ticket you get for the place is three frames from the original films, I got My Neighbour Totoro ^_^
The next day I wandered over to Ryogoku in the hopes of grabbing a ticket for the big Sumo Tournament around middle of the month but unfortunately the only tickets left were right at the back or very expensive because they were private boxes at the ringside.
Not knowing what to do next I headed over towards the bay and the Rainbow Bridge. On the other side I found a huge shopping complex and the unique Fuji TV Station building. There was an observation deck but the queue was about 1 hour long just to get into the building and I couldn't be bothered, not when just the other day I'd been up the Mori Tower in Roppongi Hills. Just like the Tokyo Tower I also found here a Statue of Liberty (in miniature of course) which was a little weird I must admit but was a easy way to finish the days adventures.
My trip to the Ghibli Museum (An animation company some describe as Japan's Disney, and others reply saying its so much more than) was an unexpected one, as when I visited the Lawsons down the street from the hotel and got help from the clerk because the whole ticket machine was thick with Japanese, I found out (it was 1pm) that the only time available was that day at 4pm. And yes, I arrived at 3.30pm and they wouldn't let me in because I was early and they were at capacity - the time does matter.
The walk to the museum and the park around it is nice enough and is littered with small Ghibli references like children's and animals footprints, and themed directional signs to point the way there. Nestled in amongst the trees, the museum feels a world away even though there is a main road no more than 10 metres. Completely themed around the world's that Miyazaki created in his films, the museum also explains the mechanics of animation and uses props and strobe lights to show visitors how it works. Walking around is great though, finding little hidden places and seeing where a corridor will take you and happening upon props creatures and items from the movies is great fun particularly if you enjoyed the likes of My Neighbour Totoro, Laputa and Howl's Moving Castle.
That was the toilets (don't worry, I quickly sneaked the picture while there was nobody else in) with a painted scene behind the window.And there's Totoro, watching over the place and making sure none of the riff-raff get in. Oh and the ticket you get for the place is three frames from the original films, I got My Neighbour Totoro ^_^
The next day I wandered over to Ryogoku in the hopes of grabbing a ticket for the big Sumo Tournament around middle of the month but unfortunately the only tickets left were right at the back or very expensive because they were private boxes at the ringside.
Not knowing what to do next I headed over towards the bay and the Rainbow Bridge. On the other side I found a huge shopping complex and the unique Fuji TV Station building. There was an observation deck but the queue was about 1 hour long just to get into the building and I couldn't be bothered, not when just the other day I'd been up the Mori Tower in Roppongi Hills. Just like the Tokyo Tower I also found here a Statue of Liberty (in miniature of course) which was a little weird I must admit but was a easy way to finish the days adventures.
I know I haven't updated in a while, I've been out and about a lot just looking around and browsing the shops.
Returning to Tokyo after Fuji-san my first trip out into the metropolis was south on the Yamanote Loop Line from Tokyo. Not having read my guidebook I was at a loss as to which station I would need to jump off at to reach the famous Tokyo Tower, a red and white, miniature reproduction of the Eiffel Tower, but I did know it wasn't too far south of the Imperial Palace as I remembered seeing it last time I visited. So clockwise I went, looking out of the right-hand windows for a glimpse of the tower between the high office blocks that would give me an indication of where to hop off.
With the tower in sight, I walked through a temple park and a shopping district in the blazing sunshine. The tower was not particularly close to any train station or subway platform. As I approached the structure from around a tree-lined hill, it reached high above seemingly more impossible than any of the taller skyscrapers I had seen so far.
From the observation platform you could see a 360 view of Tokyo, from the bay in the south-east with it's Rainbow Bridge to the Shinjuku's TMGB in the north-west where I first got my glimpse of Fuji a month and a half earlier.
The following day I trekked out on the subway, still getting used to my newly purchased Suica Card (Oyster Card for anyone that's been to London), to Roppongi Hills. A modern development, the architecture was stunningly complex with the Mori Tower taking pride of place as the monolithic skyscraper - as always, with an observation deck this time located on the helipad platform at the very top of the building.
I visited the Museum in the tower that was doing a Turner Prize Retrospective in celebration of relations with the UK. There were plenty of high-end shops to wander around, all much too expensive.
Grabbing a subway, or rather two, I made my way to Omotesando, another fashionable shopping area, with plenty of western brands all vying for status and proclaiming their coolness. There was even a Topman.
Next door sits Shibuya with the crossing that must have been shown in every film and TV show on the city. The place was definitely different from most of the rest of Tokyo as the shear volume of young people trebled and the older generations just dropped right off of the map.
Returning to Tokyo after Fuji-san my first trip out into the metropolis was south on the Yamanote Loop Line from Tokyo. Not having read my guidebook I was at a loss as to which station I would need to jump off at to reach the famous Tokyo Tower, a red and white, miniature reproduction of the Eiffel Tower, but I did know it wasn't too far south of the Imperial Palace as I remembered seeing it last time I visited. So clockwise I went, looking out of the right-hand windows for a glimpse of the tower between the high office blocks that would give me an indication of where to hop off.
With the tower in sight, I walked through a temple park and a shopping district in the blazing sunshine. The tower was not particularly close to any train station or subway platform. As I approached the structure from around a tree-lined hill, it reached high above seemingly more impossible than any of the taller skyscrapers I had seen so far.
From the observation platform you could see a 360 view of Tokyo, from the bay in the south-east with it's Rainbow Bridge to the Shinjuku's TMGB in the north-west where I first got my glimpse of Fuji a month and a half earlier.The following day I trekked out on the subway, still getting used to my newly purchased Suica Card (Oyster Card for anyone that's been to London), to Roppongi Hills. A modern development, the architecture was stunningly complex with the Mori Tower taking pride of place as the monolithic skyscraper - as always, with an observation deck this time located on the helipad platform at the very top of the building.I visited the Museum in the tower that was doing a Turner Prize Retrospective in celebration of relations with the UK. There were plenty of high-end shops to wander around, all much too expensive.Grabbing a subway, or rather two, I made my way to Omotesando, another fashionable shopping area, with plenty of western brands all vying for status and proclaiming their coolness. There was even a Topman.
Next door sits Shibuya with the crossing that must have been shown in every film and TV show on the city. The place was definitely different from most of the rest of Tokyo as the shear volume of young people trebled and the older generations just dropped right off of the map.Actually I need to go back here as I haven't seen the statue of the dog yet. I explain that later.
I spent three nights at this great little tourist spot. I say little, but of course Mt. Fuji is Japan's largest mountain and at this time of year was still capped with its famous snowy top.
I stayed around Kawaguchiko, one of the five lakes that scatter the flat basin in which Fuji resides. Although you couldn't see it from the hostel, a short walk around a clump of trees saw the monstrously sized mountain standing over the entire horizon. It seemed particularly intimidating and beautiful (I do realise I've used that word a lot on this blog) even though it is far from being the tallest in the world; maybe its down to it's symmetry of shape or the fact that it stands alone with no other mountains to contend its shear presence. Whatever the reason, you just can't help but look at it every time a tree line breaks, or it pokes just over a ridge, or a concrete jungle recedes and reveals the perfect cone.
Travelling up to the fifth station by bus (I would be severely under-equipped for such a hike before anyone asks) took an hour winding back and forth around the hillside of Fuji-san. Arriving at the station you are greeted by a gaudy faux-swiss cabin pandering to the tourists (the Japanese ones more than anything I think). After marveling at being so close and wandering around the gift shop there isn't much to do but head back down. I'm sure that at the height of summer when the upper half of the mountain is open it will be brimming with activity but for the moment I think the best way to enjoy Fuji is from afar where you can get pictures of it reflecting in the lakes - when it's not surrounded by cloud!
I found out while I was there that Fujikyu Highland, a theme park just a five minute train ride away and one you have to pass on your way to Kawaguchiko, has the worlds highest 4D rollercoaster that holds a world record for the most number of inversions. For those trying to work out the physics of a 4D rollercoaster, it is one where the seats rotate independently of the car that moves along the track and as a result this one, where the track only inverts three times, inverts the riders 14 times during the course of the experience.
Needless to say, since the weather was cooling off by this point and the wind was picking up a bit, I decided to spend the afternoon at the park - the coasters offered superb views of the mountain before you were plunged over the top.
They also had an awesome haunted house based on a derelict hospital just like those from a Japanese horror movie.
The next day I got up early and rented a bike from the hostel and thankfully, unlike the one I rented back in Nagasaki, this one was a mountain bike with actual gears! (Shock! Horror!) I cycled around two of the five lakes and visited a Lava cave and an Ice cave - I missed the Bat cave because it wasn't sign posted as such near the site, despite the whole route around the second lake being littered with signs for the 'Bat Cave' - where I met an American that taught English and his Japanese friend who were visiting the Lava Cave because the forest in which it was located was has the highest suicide rate of all of Japan. It was mentioned in a novel I think a while back and ever since has had a following of youths who come here to kill themselves.
This girls shoes made it though the cave, even later on when it turn more into pot-holing and the floor icy.
And that was Fuji-san. Oh, I went over the handlebars of the bike once (I braked too hard after my dad's camera leap from the moving vehicle - at first I thought I'd run over a stick from the sound of it hitting the ground. Don't worry it's in perfect working order, although I did loose the two AA batteries) but I was fine, it was more the aching muscles from a day of cycling that I was concerned with.
I stayed around Kawaguchiko, one of the five lakes that scatter the flat basin in which Fuji resides. Although you couldn't see it from the hostel, a short walk around a clump of trees saw the monstrously sized mountain standing over the entire horizon. It seemed particularly intimidating and beautiful (I do realise I've used that word a lot on this blog) even though it is far from being the tallest in the world; maybe its down to it's symmetry of shape or the fact that it stands alone with no other mountains to contend its shear presence. Whatever the reason, you just can't help but look at it every time a tree line breaks, or it pokes just over a ridge, or a concrete jungle recedes and reveals the perfect cone.
Travelling up to the fifth station by bus (I would be severely under-equipped for such a hike before anyone asks) took an hour winding back and forth around the hillside of Fuji-san. Arriving at the station you are greeted by a gaudy faux-swiss cabin pandering to the tourists (the Japanese ones more than anything I think). After marveling at being so close and wandering around the gift shop there isn't much to do but head back down. I'm sure that at the height of summer when the upper half of the mountain is open it will be brimming with activity but for the moment I think the best way to enjoy Fuji is from afar where you can get pictures of it reflecting in the lakes - when it's not surrounded by cloud!
I found out while I was there that Fujikyu Highland, a theme park just a five minute train ride away and one you have to pass on your way to Kawaguchiko, has the worlds highest 4D rollercoaster that holds a world record for the most number of inversions. For those trying to work out the physics of a 4D rollercoaster, it is one where the seats rotate independently of the car that moves along the track and as a result this one, where the track only inverts three times, inverts the riders 14 times during the course of the experience.
Needless to say, since the weather was cooling off by this point and the wind was picking up a bit, I decided to spend the afternoon at the park - the coasters offered superb views of the mountain before you were plunged over the top.
They also had an awesome haunted house based on a derelict hospital just like those from a Japanese horror movie.The next day I got up early and rented a bike from the hostel and thankfully, unlike the one I rented back in Nagasaki, this one was a mountain bike with actual gears! (Shock! Horror!) I cycled around two of the five lakes and visited a Lava cave and an Ice cave - I missed the Bat cave because it wasn't sign posted as such near the site, despite the whole route around the second lake being littered with signs for the 'Bat Cave' - where I met an American that taught English and his Japanese friend who were visiting the Lava Cave because the forest in which it was located was has the highest suicide rate of all of Japan. It was mentioned in a novel I think a while back and ever since has had a following of youths who come here to kill themselves.
This girls shoes made it though the cave, even later on when it turn more into pot-holing and the floor icy.
And that was Fuji-san. Oh, I went over the handlebars of the bike once (I braked too hard after my dad's camera leap from the moving vehicle - at first I thought I'd run over a stick from the sound of it hitting the ground. Don't worry it's in perfect working order, although I did loose the two AA batteries) but I was fine, it was more the aching muscles from a day of cycling that I was concerned with.
I got an early night last night, going to bed at 1.30am but boy did I need it. I woke up at around midday and deciding the day was pretty much lost I tidied up my washing and decided to have a lazy afternoon going through my photos and watching series five of ER on the hotel lobby TV. So here is the backlog of images, first up is Kyoto with the Manga Museum, a performing family, the streets of Gion and a temple.
And back in Osaka I did the unthinkable and went to Universal Studios for a lazy, familiar afternoon out.
Off in the mountains at Koya-san, between getting lost I did manage to take some photos; temples, mountain views, a graveyard where huge companies own plots for their employees when they pop their clogs, and me doing the whole ryokan thing. Mind you I've worn a yukata (that's basically a bath robe btw) in other places too, like here in Tokyo.
Briefly back in Tokyo after cutting Ise short before heading off to Fuji-san I stayed at Juyoh again. Here's a shot of the house out back with the roof garden - a month can make a big difference, here's the original image from when I arrived in Tokyo.
I hope that makes up for the wait (you know who you are ^_^)
And back in Osaka I did the unthinkable and went to Universal Studios for a lazy, familiar afternoon out.
Off in the mountains at Koya-san, between getting lost I did manage to take some photos; temples, mountain views, a graveyard where huge companies own plots for their employees when they pop their clogs, and me doing the whole ryokan thing. Mind you I've worn a yukata (that's basically a bath robe btw) in other places too, like here in Tokyo.
Briefly back in Tokyo after cutting Ise short before heading off to Fuji-san I stayed at Juyoh again. Here's a shot of the house out back with the roof garden - a month can make a big difference, here's the original image from when I arrived in Tokyo.
I hope that makes up for the wait (you know who you are ^_^)
The last few post were written without internet access and I haven't had time to sort out the photos so they're just cut n' paste in at the moment, I'll get the photos up when I can.
I'm in Tokyo at the moment and am off to Fuji-san for a few days just as soon as I'm finished with this. Sorry I haven't been replying to comments BTW, but I've been a bit busy and haven't spent much time on the website beyond what is necessary - I have been reading them though!
I'm in Tokyo at the moment and am off to Fuji-san for a few days just as soon as I'm finished with this. Sorry I haven't been replying to comments BTW, but I've been a bit busy and haven't spent much time on the website beyond what is necessary - I have been reading them though!
While I wasn't able to book anywhere to stay in Kyoto, I did manage to find somewhere in the almost legendary Koya-san. Tucked away in the mountainous region south-east of Osaka, Koya-san (or Mt. Koya) was and is a place of pilgrimage where the Japanese would trek to with religious vigor. The town itself is fairly small and houses over 50 temples that welcome guests in their ryo-kan accommodation where they can enjoy the vegetarian meals prepared for the Buddhist monks and in some cases, as it was with me, an early morning prayer. Thankfully the morning prayer at my ryo-kan was only at 7am and not at 6am as is standard fair. I found it a very profound experience, with the chanting of the monks' prayers and the incense really helping to draw you into the right mindset. Very relaxing indeed.
As well as taking in the sights, one thing that I wanted to do while here was to get a good trek up into the mountains around Koya Town. The one thing I learned to loath was hiking maps that are so bloody simplistic its impossible to navigate with them. Thankfully I was in Japan so after being suitably lost for 2 hours I wasn't too freaked out as somebody would give me a lift into town if push came to shove and it started getting dark - this also highlighted Japan's obsession - or rather lack of - when it comes to street signs. They just do not like naming streets and telling you. In the end, while I was asking a group of old ladies who were also out walking where I was they flagged down a truck and got him to take me back to Koya Town. From here I decided to do the more traditional and safer tourist spots at either end of town. From the first I ended up out of pure curiosity doing pat of the women's pilgrimage over the mountain tops. This trail was what women used to trek back when they weren't allowed to enter Koya-san, it goes passed nine shrines and markers that point out the boundaries of Koya-san and the area into which they could not enter.
It was a worthy experience with the morning prayers and all, but I'm glad I only have two days here as there isn't that much to do during the days to justify the extortionate price. These two days have cost me a weeks worth of usual accommodation.
As well as taking in the sights, one thing that I wanted to do while here was to get a good trek up into the mountains around Koya Town. The one thing I learned to loath was hiking maps that are so bloody simplistic its impossible to navigate with them. Thankfully I was in Japan so after being suitably lost for 2 hours I wasn't too freaked out as somebody would give me a lift into town if push came to shove and it started getting dark - this also highlighted Japan's obsession - or rather lack of - when it comes to street signs. They just do not like naming streets and telling you. In the end, while I was asking a group of old ladies who were also out walking where I was they flagged down a truck and got him to take me back to Koya Town. From here I decided to do the more traditional and safer tourist spots at either end of town. From the first I ended up out of pure curiosity doing pat of the women's pilgrimage over the mountain tops. This trail was what women used to trek back when they weren't allowed to enter Koya-san, it goes passed nine shrines and markers that point out the boundaries of Koya-san and the area into which they could not enter.
It was a worthy experience with the morning prayers and all, but I'm glad I only have two days here as there isn't that much to do during the days to justify the extortionate price. These two days have cost me a weeks worth of usual accommodation.
