real monk food
While I wasn't able to book anywhere to stay in Kyoto, I did manage to find somewhere in the almost legendary Koya-san. Tucked away in the mountainous region south-east of Osaka, Koya-san (or Mt. Koya) was and is a place of pilgrimage where the Japanese would trek to with religious vigor. The town itself is fairly small and houses over 50 temples that welcome guests in their ryo-kan accommodation where they can enjoy the vegetarian meals prepared for the Buddhist monks and in some cases, as it was with me, an early morning prayer. Thankfully the morning prayer at my ryo-kan was only at 7am and not at 6am as is standard fair. I found it a very profound experience, with the chanting of the monks' prayers and the incense really helping to draw you into the right mindset. Very relaxing indeed.
As well as taking in the sights, one thing that I wanted to do while here was to get a good trek up into the mountains around Koya Town. The one thing I learned to loath was hiking maps that are so bloody simplistic its impossible to navigate with them. Thankfully I was in Japan so after being suitably lost for 2 hours I wasn't too freaked out as somebody would give me a lift into town if push came to shove and it started getting dark - this also highlighted Japan's obsession - or rather lack of - when it comes to street signs. They just do not like naming streets and telling you. In the end, while I was asking a group of old ladies who were also out walking where I was they flagged down a truck and got him to take me back to Koya Town. From here I decided to do the more traditional and safer tourist spots at either end of town. From the first I ended up out of pure curiosity doing pat of the women's pilgrimage over the mountain tops. This trail was what women used to trek back when they weren't allowed to enter Koya-san, it goes passed nine shrines and markers that point out the boundaries of Koya-san and the area into which they could not enter.
It was a worthy experience with the morning prayers and all, but I'm glad I only have two days here as there isn't that much to do during the days to justify the extortionate price. These two days have cost me a weeks worth of usual accommodation.
As well as taking in the sights, one thing that I wanted to do while here was to get a good trek up into the mountains around Koya Town. The one thing I learned to loath was hiking maps that are so bloody simplistic its impossible to navigate with them. Thankfully I was in Japan so after being suitably lost for 2 hours I wasn't too freaked out as somebody would give me a lift into town if push came to shove and it started getting dark - this also highlighted Japan's obsession - or rather lack of - when it comes to street signs. They just do not like naming streets and telling you. In the end, while I was asking a group of old ladies who were also out walking where I was they flagged down a truck and got him to take me back to Koya Town. From here I decided to do the more traditional and safer tourist spots at either end of town. From the first I ended up out of pure curiosity doing pat of the women's pilgrimage over the mountain tops. This trail was what women used to trek back when they weren't allowed to enter Koya-san, it goes passed nine shrines and markers that point out the boundaries of Koya-san and the area into which they could not enter.
It was a worthy experience with the morning prayers and all, but I'm glad I only have two days here as there isn't that much to do during the days to justify the extortionate price. These two days have cost me a weeks worth of usual accommodation.
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