Recently in Tokyo Category

...early to rise

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Getting up at 3.30am I left the hotel to catch the first train along with Sam and Claire. Luckily the fish market was easy to get to on the subway since we didn't have to change lines - just straight there on the Hibiya Line.

20080525001.jpgArriving there we headed inside. At first we weren't sure if we were allow in through that entrance as it was just tradesmen and vehicles rushing in and out, but seeing a few people in Bermuda shorts that looked decidedly touristy, we figured we'd try going in. The place was already quite hectic with fish being thrown about while underneath some real artists carved up the huge tuna with amazing speed.

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20080525005.jpg20080525006.jpg20080525007.jpg20080525008.jpgAfter the fish market we wandered around the outer market which housed a variety of tools and supplies for restaurants as well as a parade of food stalls serving fresh seafood meals. The sushi was great although a bento box I bought was a bit more miss than it was hit.



earthquake! yay!

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Unfortunately followed shortly after by the earthquake in China, I experience my first one (that I could actually feel) while at the hotel late one night. Lying in bed watching a movie on my laptop, I started swaying back and forth - at first I thought I'd just had way more to drink than I could remember ^_^ - but after noticing the coat-hanger start to clack against the wall I realised the building was actually moving.

It was great experience; maybe it would have been different if it were a full blown, violent one, but luckily it wasn't anywhere near.

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senso-ji and harajuku

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Some pictures of my visit to the senso-ji temple in Asakusa, which is the most important one in Tokyo and equally full of people at all times of the day.

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And then on to Harajuku with another temple and the park where bands were set up along the pathways playing their wares. It was great just to stand and listen to then as they were all pretty decent.

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totoro's home

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Maybe you just thought that Totoro lived in the woods happily lazing his life away in almost blissful ignorance... like a sloth. But I now know better, in that wood is a magical house full of wondrous creatures and corridors that twist and turn like spaghetti in a blender. This place is in Mataka, just 40 minutes from Tokyo Station.

My trip to the Ghibli Museum (An animation company some describe as Japan's Disney, and others reply saying its so much more than) was an unexpected one, as when I visited the Lawsons down the street from the hotel and got help from the clerk because the whole ticket machine was thick with Japanese, I found out (it was 1pm) that the only time available was that day at 4pm. And yes, I arrived at 3.30pm and they wouldn't let me in because I was early and they were at capacity - the time does matter.

The walk to the museum and the park around it is nice enough and is littered with small Ghibli references like children's and animals footprints, and themed directional signs to point the way there. Nestled in amongst the trees, the museum feels a world away even though there is a main road no more than 10 metres. Completely themed around the world's that Miyazaki created in his films, the museum also explains the mechanics of animation and uses props and strobe lights to show visitors how it works. Walking around is great though, finding little hidden places and seeing where a corridor will take you and happening upon props creatures and items from the movies is great  fun particularly if you enjoyed the likes of My Neighbour Totoro, Laputa and Howl's Moving Castle.

20080511008.jpgThat was the toilets (don't worry, I quickly sneaked the picture while there was nobody else in) with a painted scene behind the window.

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And there's Totoro, watching over the place and making sure none of the riff-raff get in. Oh and the ticket you get for the place is three frames from the original films, I got My Neighbour Totoro ^_^

The next day I wandered over to Ryogoku in the hopes of grabbing a ticket for the big Sumo Tournament around middle of the month but unfortunately the only tickets left were right at the back or very expensive because they were private boxes at the ringside.

20080511005.jpgNot knowing what to do next I headed over towards the bay and the Rainbow Bridge. On the other side I found a huge shopping complex and the unique Fuji TV Station building. There was an observation deck but the queue was about 1 hour long just to get into the building and I couldn't be bothered, not when just the other day I'd been up the Mori Tower in Roppongi Hills. Just like the Tokyo Tower I also found here a Statue of Liberty (in miniature of course) which was a little weird I must admit but was a easy way to finish the days adventures.


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tokyo from on high

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I know I haven't updated in a while, I've been out and about a lot just looking around and browsing the shops.

Returning to Tokyo after Fuji-san my first trip out into the metropolis was south on the Yamanote Loop Line from Tokyo. Not having read my guidebook I was at a loss as to which station I would need to jump off at to reach the famous Tokyo Tower, a red and white, miniature reproduction of the Eiffel Tower, but I did know it wasn't too far south of the Imperial Palace as I remembered seeing it last time I visited. So clockwise I went, looking out of the right-hand windows for a glimpse of the tower between the high office blocks that would give me an indication of where to hop off.

With the tower in sight, I walked through a temple park and a shopping district in the blazing sunshine. The tower was not particularly close to any train station or subway platform. As I approached the structure from around a tree-lined hill, it reached high above seemingly more impossible than any of the taller skyscrapers I had seen so far.

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20080504028.jpgFrom the observation platform you could see a 360 view of Tokyo, from the bay in the south-east with it's Rainbow Bridge to the Shinjuku's TMGB in the north-west where I first got my glimpse of Fuji a month and a half earlier.

20080504029.jpgThe following day I trekked out on the subway, still getting used to my newly purchased Suica Card (Oyster Card for anyone that's been to London), to Roppongi Hills. A modern development, the architecture was stunningly complex with the Mori Tower taking pride of place as the monolithic skyscraper - as always, with an observation deck this time located on the helipad platform at the very top of the building.

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20080511002.jpgI visited the Museum in the tower that was doing a Turner Prize Retrospective in celebration of relations with the UK. There were plenty of high-end shops to wander around, all much too expensive.

Grabbing a subway, or rather two, I made my way to Omotesando, another fashionable shopping area, with plenty of western brands all vying for status and proclaiming their coolness. There was even a Topman.

20080511003.jpgNext door sits Shibuya with the crossing that must have been shown in every film and TV show on the city. The place was definitely different from most of the rest of Tokyo as the shear volume of young people trebled and the older generations just dropped right off of the map.


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Actually I need to go back here as I haven't seen the statue of the dog yet. I explain that later.

it's a slow sunday

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I got an early night last night, going to bed at 1.30am but boy did I need it. I woke up at around midday and deciding the day was pretty much lost I tidied up my washing and decided to have a lazy afternoon going through my photos and watching series five of ER on the hotel lobby TV. So here is the backlog of images, first up is Kyoto with the Manga Museum, a performing family, the streets of Gion and a temple.

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And back in Osaka I did the unthinkable and went to Universal Studios for a lazy, familiar afternoon out.

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Off in the mountains at Koya-san, between getting lost I did manage to take some photos; temples, mountain views, a graveyard where huge companies own plots for their employees when they pop their clogs, and me doing the whole ryokan thing. Mind you I've worn a yukata (that's basically a bath robe btw) in other places too, like here in Tokyo.

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Briefly back in Tokyo after cutting Ise short before heading off to Fuji-san I stayed at Juyoh again. Here's a shot of the house out back with the roof garden - a month can make a big difference, here's the original image from when I arrived in Tokyo.

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I hope that makes up for the wait (you know who you are ^_^)

i'll add photos later

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The last few post were written without internet access and I haven't had time to sort out the photos so they're just cut n' paste in at the moment, I'll get the photos up when I can.

I'm in Tokyo at the moment and am off to Fuji-san for a few days just as soon as I'm finished with this. Sorry I haven't been replying to comments BTW, but I've been a bit busy and haven't spent much time on the website beyond what is necessary - I have been reading them though!

ka - ra - o - ke!!!

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I'm pushed for time as I have to get out for the train station this morning and I was out late last night. I went to a baseball match between the Tigers and  the American team, the Oakland Athletics. It was a fun, enjoyable day out and lasted about three hours. Afterwards, the guys from the hotel (Simon, Rob, Guy, Dave, Saya, and Maiyu) and myself wandered around the area outside the Tokyo Dome and then zoomed across on the subway to Ueno and popped into Hub again  for something to eat and drink. I have to tell you that even the English food is better in Japan!

When we finished up there Simon and Rob ran off to meet some more friends and the rest of us bounced our way across the street into a karaoke bar. One price, as much drink as you would like and the single best thing about this trip so far. Seriously, even me, Mr Shyguy ^_^ superb!

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That last photo is Guy (from Scotland), Maiyu (Works at the hotel), Saya (Dave's girlfriend from Osaka), and Dave (from America). Anyway, got to rush.

ueno zoo

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Well, I have my Shinkansen ticket, thankfully all the bullet trains bar the fastest Nozumi is covered by my rail pass so it cost nothing.

After that stop at Tokyo Station it was a quick (well, a half hour) zip along the Yamanote loop line to Shinjuku. It was fairly crowded most of the way, there were ebes and flows really; the train would fill up to the brim and then empty out. The trains themselves are very punctual, when it comes to the shinkansen I think I read it was an average late time of 12 seconds and at least in Tokyo it works just like the subway where you buy the ticket from a machine or ticket office and it is just read by entry and exit gates as you go in one and come out of another. Fare Adjustment machines are available next to every exit in case you need to top up because you got off at a different station, but that's as simple as paying the difference - no extra charge here!

Actually the one thing I'm still not used to doing yet, and this is totally un-train related, is having to look up for most things. The buildings in Tokyo's commercial districts tend to be 5 or 6 floors high with a different shop on each floor. I'm just so used to looking at eye level for an HMV or a cafe or whatever.

So back to Shinjuku, getting off and taking the west exit leads you into an underground tunnel lined with shops, underground shopping complexes, and basement entrances into some of the huge skyscrapers above. About half a kilometre later I emerged into the sunlight again and right before me stood the twin towers of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building.

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That second photo is taken from inside the coliseum that's encapsulates the plaza in front on the towers. All in all, 13,000 Japanese people commute to this complex every morning for work, which even with such a great public transit system his hard to really picture. I was here for a reason though  and that was because the 45th floor observation room (two floors below the cylinders at the top of the tower) allows for some great views of the city. It's quite strange as in every direction all you can see is Tokyo, right up to the horizon, there's just no end to this place! Actually, that's not strictly true as you can see Mount Fuji to the west, almost.

20080322003.jpgThat whiteish triangle in the middle of the blue haze is the snow atop the volcano.

After that I wandered around the park at the base of the towers and headed off to Shinjuku to have a look around the shops to the east of the station where I popped into a cafe for a tuna sandwich and a cup of tea. The pricing on most things (food, batteries etc.) is pretty much the same as back home so it's not too hard to keep track of things.

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Another 25 minutes on the train and I'm back at Ueno where I got to go to the zoo I saw on my first day. At

¥600 (about £3.00) it was a decent enough way to spend a lazy afternoon.


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Coming out of the back of the zoo where the gardens are, brings you out into the heart of Ueno. This parade of stalls are selling food along a series of small islands across the water that by bridge leads to the temple in the background there set in the middle of the lake.

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And that was my day. After getting back to the hotel, me and a few of the guys staying there, starting at the bar in the lobby (only open once a month, what timing!) went to Hub, 'an English pub' a couple of streets away. That was great, English beer, even the Tott'ham v Portsmouth match was live on tele (1pm for you lot is 10pm for us here).

And that was it. I'm going to have to rush now 'cos I'm off to a Baseball game at Tokyo Dome in about 15 minutes and I need to finish getting ready.

yes, it's raining!

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I finally got some sleep last night, after going two with about an hour total (if that). So when I was ready to go out today it was around 12 o'clock. Oh, here's a view from my window as it was too dark yesterday evening when I original tried to take the photo.

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Not much in the way of spectacular (apparently you can see Fuji-san from the other side of the hotel, but it's been pretty overcast anyway) although looking down is one of the most quintessential features I've noticed in Tokyo.

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These roof, wall and porch gardens are seeming crammed into almost every crevice you can find! The one foot space in front of some buildings can look like jungles.

It's been steadily raining since last night and it didn't let up today, despite that I still plodded on with going to the Imperial Palace's gardens. Probably not the best conditions to be showing off the splendor but hey, time waits for no man.

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Going into the garden from the west side - closest to Tokyo Central Station - you cross over the moat and through the first gateway. Just inside is a second set of huge wooden gates in case the first was ever breached. Here was a stone carving of a fish that was one of many used to finalise the roof on the gate tower. The date on this one suggests it was created after the original tower burned down.

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The path that winds its way through the gardens twisted its way through the absolutely massive walls that protected the main citadel. In addition the the walls the pathways that led up into each area were protected by an elite guard selected from the most prestigious clans of the time. Up to 100 of these guards would permanently live in the main guard house and basically frisk everyone travelling into the central or secondary citadel.

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This three tiered tower was one of three that were built and the only one with more than two levels. Used by the original Edo castle for protection in case of war, it was used by the samurai back in the day as it afforded views of the bay and mount Fuji as well as the fireworks during festivities. Here's some bamboo...

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The above hillside was covered in plum trees and led to the lower garden, which was a recreation of the traditional Edo garden that burned down during the fire that obliterated a large proportion of the castle.

20080320020.jpgAfter that I got lost looking for Chou-odori (I found it after going through a large u-shaped detour ^_^), which is over in Ginza and houses a load of up market shops including Dunhills London and the Apple store. It was all great but I didn't want to buy anything like that this early in the holiday and I will be back in Tokyo before I come back anyway.

I grabbed something to eat before it ended up like yesterday again and had some curry and rice from this tiny, little food place I found on my way back to the station - not Tokyo Station, that was too far away and I'd have to go passed another to get back to it.

Finally I popped quickly into Akihabara to have a look around scope things out. Very colourful, lots of bargins, lots of games, cd's, and movies. I went into an arcade while I was there, five floors of games; awesome.

And it's still raining :)
 
 

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